Cavy Care Information

 

There are dozens of websites with good information on 
Cavy Care and some with questionable info.
The following information
 is my recipe for a healthy, happy cavy. I hope it will answer questions
like the ones I had when I began in the cavy fancy.
Some answers I learned through experience, some were the result
of a lot of reading and working with wonderful people that have 
many more years of cavy knowledge than I.

 

Housing

 

  • The larger the cage, the better. An adult cavy should have at least  4 sq, feet of cage space. Remember, the little one you bring home is going to grow. It's less expensive to purchase a large cage when you get your cavy, then to buy a small one and replace it. 

  • My single animals are in 24 by 24 inch wire cages that are 14 inches high. These cages are very easy to stack. The cages currently have 4 inch deep metal pans and full width opening fronts with smaller access doors. Some cavies don't need a house to hide in if they have another cage above them. This  roof  provides enough security. 

 

  • I also use 30 by 30 inch coroplast cages for 2 or 3 animals. Click on the following link for my plastic cage construction plans and directions: Plastic cage

 

  • Never house a cavy on wire. Wire floors only invite trouble for a cavy's feet and legs. Because most rabbits are housed on wire, I strongly believe a cavy should not be housed with a rabbit.

 

  • Cavies love clean, low dust, pine bedding chips to roll in and munch on. I've tried every brand of alternative bedding and always go back to high quality pine. Never use cedar bedding. The aromatic oils in cedar cause respiratory problems. Ammonia build up will cause the same problem, so the cage bedding should be changed twice a week. Wash the cage thoroughly, at least once a month, with a simple green type cleaner. Disinfect with a bleach dilution. Use one part bleach to nine parts water, let sit a few minutes, then rinse very well. To remove any crystal urine build up in the corners, use white vinegar diluted 50-50 with water and let it soak. Rinse well with hot water.

 

  • Cavies are very sensitive to overheating and high humidity. I use a dehumidifier, air conditioner, and fan to control the temp and humidity in the caviary. You have to position every thing carefully, pigs get sick quickly if they are in a draft.

 

 

Cage Furniture

  • Along with the cavy, you'll have the water bottle, it's food bowl, toys, and a hide out if you choose to use one.

  • Water bottle or dish?  Cavies learn to drink from either, but a dish allows bedding chips and feces to foul the water. You also can't monitor how much water the cavy is actually drinking when it constantly gets dumped.

  • Food bowls come in a zillion shapes and sizes. I use a heavy straight sided crock that is actually a small dog dish.  Dish Pic.  Cavies like to stand on the edge of their dish and look around while eating. If the dish tips, it can smack them in the mouth and it also scatters the food everywhere. A dish that mounts to the side of the cage isn't very practical. The height of the cage pan prevents easy mounting, you have to cut a hole into it to get the dish low enough.

  • I always give my cavies wood blocks or wood toys to chew. Other toys they love are paper towel or toilet paper tubes, Quaker Oats containers, and plain brown craft paper.

  • Moms with babies shouldn't have the tubes unless you use a very large cardboard tube that the growing babies won't get stuck in.

 

 

Nutrition Basics

 

  • Food is a cavy's favorite thing! Cavies are herbivores, nibblers, and grazers. If they're not eating, they're sleeping! This can lead to a chubby bubby if they don't get any exercise, are fed too much, or are fed the wrong food.

  • A cavy only needs 3 basic things: good quality pellets, lots of timothy hay, and lots of fresh water with vitamin C in it. Crystal Aqua C, sold by Klubertanz, is perfect.  www.klubertanz.com/  page 41 of their online catalog.

  • Rabbit pellets don't contain the proper nutrients for cavies.

  • I use Oxbow & Mazuri Cavy food.   www.oxbowhay.com/  

  • My recipe for cavies uses  2 parts Oxbow Cavy Cuisine, (main ingredient in this food is timothy grass) & 1 part Mazuri Guinea Pig Pellets, this is for adults over 6 months of age. Each adult animal gets one quarter to one half cup per day. 

  • For pigs from birth to 6 months, I start with 50-50 Oxbow Cavy Performance (main ingredient in this food is alfalfa) & Mazuri Guinea Pig pellets. The nursing moms and babies get as much as they want. (Once weaned, they don't need milk or other dairy products).

  • At about 4 months of age, I start to gradually reduce the amount they receive and begin to mix in Cavy Cuisine . This starts the change over to adult food. 

 

  • For variety I sprinkle a pinch of Quaker Oats over the pellets for all the pigs.  Wheat germ can also be used on the pellets.

 

WATER!
  • Cavies can't eat unless they have plenty of water to flush their mouths with!

  • I use bottled spring water. Chlorine and fluoride in tap water can be toxic to cavies.

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    Fruits and Veggies

     

    • Most of mine don't care for fruits, except for apples and grapes. Grapes need to be cut in half and should be seedless.
      Although they love them, don't give bananas to cavies. They contain too much potassium which can lead to urinary tract problems.

    • Tried and truly loved veggies are: Romaine or Red Leaf lettuce, Parsley, Kale, Green Beans, Carrots, Eggplant, Dandelion Greens, Chicory, Green Sweet Peppers, and Tomatoes.

    • Small amounts of one or two of these can be fed daily. Wash the veggies before feeding. Rotate through the list for variety.

    • Avoid: Spinach, Onions, Scallions, Potatoes, Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Iceberg lettuce!!!!  They will either give your pig diarrhea and bloat or are toxic.

    Snacks

    • I do give my pigs treats about once a month. (Kaytee™ ) has a very good alfalfa and berry nibbler that I use. Out of the shell sunflower seeds and cheerios are also good. These are very fattening!  Use in small amounts.

    "Pet" Peeves!

    As unbelievable as it sounds, commercial pet store Guinea Pig food usually contains many items that can be a choking hazard for your cavy.  These items include:

    • Sunflower seeds still in the shell, Dried corn kernels, Whole beans and Nuts.

    Ice-cream, candy, chocolate, and potato chips are not part of their food pyramid!  

     

     

     

    General Grooming

    All cavies, long and short hair, need grooming and maintenance.

    • Feet  
      The nails generally get the most attention because long sharp toenails can do a wicked scratch job on your tender skin! They can also harm the cavy, by curling back and growing into their paws. About once a month you'll want to trim the nails. Cavies have 4 toes on their front feet and 3 on the back. I use a kitten, scissor style nail trimmer.
      You also need to check the pads. Abyssinians are very prone to pad calluses or spurs, but other varieties can get them too.
    • Ears
      Teddies get very waxy ears. This forms a crust all over the inside of the ear flap and canal.

    • Use ferret ear cleaner and cotton balls to gently remove the build-up.
    • Teeth
      Dental problems can kill a cavy very quickly.

    • Look for broken, misaligned, or missing teeth.
    • Coat
      Cavies shed, get matted, get bugs and accumulate dirt in their fur.

    • Brush long haired varieties daily. Short haired ones at least twice a month.
    • Bathing
      Yes, cavies can get a bath!
      Long haired breeds require a bath more frequently.

    Click on grooming hints for more info on each section above.

    Grooming Hints

     

     

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                             Page Last Updated: 18 March, 2008